How could I forget my crochet friends for the YAL this month? My mother's middle name was Mary so I thought this was a fitting name for these sweet little ballet flats with their cute flower closure. This project is easy and can be adjusted to fit any foot. I can't wait to see yours!
Shoe size: UK 5, US/AUS 7, Eur 38.
NOTE: This is an easy pattern to adjust. If you foot is narrow, use less starting chain – try 7ch.
If wider, alter accordingly, and follow the same format throughout doing rounds of dc.
FITTING: To gauge the fit, do the TOE section for 10 rounds and try it on. It needs to be very snug. This determines the width from then on.
dc (UK) = sc (USA) = Dc (Aus)
Dk yarn/8ply natural fibre (but you could probably use up your acrylic stash for these.) – 1 ball – 90 metres.
To do stripes, use small quantities of other colours
2 stitch markers
Instructions: Work in spirals, marking the start of each row. Do not join each row with a slipstitch.
Let’s start: Ch 9, dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each of the next 6sts, 3dc in last ch (this is your corner), place marker in the 2nd dc of this 3dc. Work in the foundation chain on the other side by hooking into the single loop that’s left. Dc in the next 6 loops, 2dc in the last loop, place marker in this last dc. (18 sts)
Your markers are now at both of the SIDES of the feet.
NOTE: As you work the rows, these markers actually move around the circle due to the spiral nature of crocheting so at the end, they will NOT be sitting at the SIDES. To fix this so your sides are in line with the first foundation chain line, let your toe relax into its own position and REALIGN the markers at the NEW sides of the feet of your work. (This will make sense once you’ve done the toe section and can SEE how it sits.)
|Markers move around.|
Every row for the toe section: *2dc in the stitches AFTER and BEFORE each marker, dc in the marker stitch, and then dc in all the other stitches between. (This means you increase 4 sts every round)
Repeat this format working in spirals placing the marker each time until you have 38 sts. ( if your toes are longer, just do a few more rounds. The next section is easily adapted as it’s almost straight dc all around)
From now on, do spirals of main colour; introduce a new colour for the stripe at one of the ends where the markers are. I did just one row each of yellow, white, yellow for the stripes and carried the yellow up inside. Weave the ends in at the back as you work.
End the foot section off with a row of your main colour if you did stripes. Fasten off. Weave in the end.
Join main colour 4 stitches from the left marker towards the centre on top of the foot.
Dc around to the other marker and then dc four stitches back into the other side towards the centre. You should now be working on 27 stitches out of the 38.
Do four rows and then decrease in the centre of the row by dc2tog.
Continue working in rows turning at the end of each row.
Each row: Dc in all stitches, 1 ch (This 1ch is not counted as a stitch. It is the stitch required to get you up to the height of the next row.) turn. Repeat until desired length. NOTE: stop a few rows short of your actual heel or the shoe will slip off! The stretch in the yarn will provide the extra cms you need to make the fit snug.
Leave a long tail.
TO MAKE UP THE HEEL: Bring the last row ends together. Thread the long tail with a needle. Bring the two points, A and B together. On the wrong side, join the inner seam with mattress stitch (here http://www.creativeknittingmagazine.com/blog/?p=5333 …)
Join colour of your choice at the centre back with a slip stitch and choose which edging you do. I’ve done the picot.
1. Dc around the entire top border of the slip on however - decrease once by doing a dc2tog once on each side of the instep on the first edging round. (This will make the slipper more fitted to your foot.) The number of stitches will depend on how long you made your instep.
. **You may have to fudge the edging at the end to make it fit depending on how many stitches you did for your instep.
PICOT edging - I love a picot! It’s dainty, easy to do and is easier to fudge if you don’t have the right number of stitches.
Picot – 1ch, dc in same place as slst, 1dc in the next two stitches, 3ch, sl st into the same place as the last dc, *1dc in the next 3dc, 3ch, slst into the last dc. Repeat from * all around. Slst into the first dc of the round. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.
Strap for picot edge:
Find the place where yu want your strap to come from. On the inner ankle side of the slip-on, using the edging colour, make a slip knot in the yarn, insert your hook in the first dc from the OUTSIDE of the slip on in the first dc after a picot.
Do a dc in each of the three dcs, ch 1 (turning chain) This will form your strap. Work over these three stitches until the strap is long enough to reach the other side where you will put your button.
Buttonhole row: dc, ch 2 and miss one dc, dc, ch 1, turn.
Dc in first dc, dc in ch2 space, dc in last dc, ch1, turn.
Dc all stitches on rows with the ch1 turning at the ends until you have 2cm more of strap.
The centre of this will be where the button is slipped through from beneath so leave it open. Do not tighten this magic ring! Your button needs to get through!
Magic ring. 1ch, 6dc into ring, sl st into the first dc. ** Do not pull too tight. This opening needs to be wide enough to slide a button through.
2. ch1, dc in same place as slst, 3tr in next dc, *dc in next dc, 3tr in next dc repeat from * around for your petals. I have 5 petals, you will have 6. Join the flower to the strap with sewing thread and a sewing needle.
Attach a button to the body of the shoe.
Make a second slip-on.
I'll be off stitching...