.jpeg)
Mary-Lu Slip-ons
How could I forget my crochet friends for the YAL this month? My mother's middle name was Mary so I thought this was a fitting name for these sweet little ballet flats with their cute flower closure. This project is easy and can be adjusted to fit any foot. I can't wait to see yours!
Shoe
size: UK 5, US/AUS 7, Eur 38.
NOTE: This is an easy pattern to
adjust. If you foot is narrow, use less starting chain – try 7ch.
If wider, alter accordingly, and follow the
same format throughout doing rounds of dc.
FITTING:
To gauge the fit, do the TOE section for
10 rounds and try it on. It needs to be
very snug. This determines the width
from then on.
UK
terms
dc (UK)
= sc (USA) = Dc (Aus)
DETAILS:
Dk
yarn/8ply natural fibre (but you could probably use up your acrylic stash for
these.) – 1 ball – 90 metres.
To do
stripes, use small quantities of other colours
4.00mm
hook
Tapestry needle
2
stitch markers
Instructions: Work in spirals, marking the start of each
row. Do not join each row with a slipstitch.
TOE
.jpeg)
Let’s
start: Ch 9, dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in each
of the next 6sts, 3dc in last ch (this
is your corner), place marker in
the 2nd dc of this 3dc. Work in the foundation chain on the other
side by hooking into the single loop that’s left. Dc in the next 6 loops, 2dc in the last loop,
place marker in this last dc.
(18 sts)
Your markers are now at both of
the SIDES of the feet.
NOTE: As you work the rows, these markers actually
move around the circle due to the spiral
nature of crocheting so at the end, they
will NOT be sitting at the SIDES. To fix
this so your sides are in line with the first foundation chain line, let your toe relax into its own position and
REALIGN the markers at the NEW sides of the feet of your work.
(This will make sense once you’ve
done the toe section and can SEE how it sits.)
 |
| Markers move around. |
Every
row for the toe section: *2dc in the
stitches AFTER and BEFORE each marker, dc in the marker stitch, and then
dc in all the other stitches between.
(This means you increase 4 sts every round)
Repeat
this format working in spirals placing the marker each time until you have 38
sts. ( if your toes are longer, just do
a few more rounds. The next section is
easily adapted as it’s almost straight dc all around)
From now on, do spirals of main
colour; introduce a new colour for the stripe at one of the ends where the markers
are. I did just one row each of yellow, white, yellow for the stripes and
carried the yellow up inside. Weave the
ends in at the back as you work.
End the
foot section off with a row of your main colour if you did stripes. Fasten off.
Weave in the end.
Foot/instep
section:
Join
main colour 4 stitches from the left marker towards the centre on top of the
foot.
Dc
around to the other marker and then dc four stitches back into the other side
towards the centre. You should now be
working on 27 stitches out of the 38.
There are 11 stitches in the middle not
worked on.
 |
| leave 11 stitches in the centre unstitched |
Do four
rows and then decrease in the centre of the row by dc2tog.
Continue working in rows turning
at the end of each row.
Each row: Dc in all stitches, 1
ch (This 1ch is not
counted as a stitch. It is the stitch required to get you up to the height of
the next row.)
turn. Repeat until desired length. NOTE: stop a few rows short of your actual
heel or the shoe will slip off! The
stretch in the yarn will provide the extra cms you need to make the fit snug.
Leave a
long tail.
TO MAKE UP THE HEEL: Bring the last row ends together. Thread the long tail with a needle. Bring
the two points, A and B together. On the
wrong side, join the inner seam with mattress stitch (here http://www.creativeknittingmagazine.com/blog/?p=5333 …)
EDGING
.jpeg) |
| first dc row of the picot edge |
Join
colour of your choice at the centre back with a slip stitch and choose which edging you do. I’ve done the picot.
1. Dc
around the entire top border of the slip on however - decrease once by doing a dc2tog once on each side of
the instep on the first edging round.
(This will make the slipper more fitted to your foot.) The number of
stitches will depend on how long you made your instep.
. **You may have to fudge the edging at the end to make it fit
depending on how many stitches you did for your instep.
PICOT edging - I love a picot! It’s dainty, easy to do and
is easier to fudge if you don’t have the right number of stitches.
Picot
– 1ch, dc in same place as slst, 1dc in the next two stitches, 3ch, sl st into
the same place as the last dc, *1dc in the next 3dc, 3ch, slst into the last
dc. Repeat from * all around. Slst into
the first dc of the round. Fasten off.
Weave in the ends.
Strap
for picot edge:
Find
the place where yu want your strap to come from. On the inner ankle side of the
slip-on, using the edging colour, make a slip knot in the yarn, insert your
hook in the first dc from the OUTSIDE of the slip on in the first dc after a
picot.
Do a dc in each of the three dcs, ch 1 (turning chain) This will form your strap. Work
over these three stitches until the strap is long enough to reach the other
side where you will put your button.
Buttonhole
row: dc, ch 2 and miss one dc, dc, ch
1, turn.
Dc in first dc, dc in ch2 space, dc in last
dc, ch1, turn.
Dc all
stitches on rows with the ch1 turning at the ends until you have 2cm more of
strap.
Make
a tiny flower for the strap
.jpeg) |
| start of the flower closure |
The
centre of this will be where the button is slipped through from beneath so
leave it open. Do not tighten this magic
ring! Your button needs to get through!
Magic
ring. 1ch, 6dc into ring, sl st into the first dc. ** Do not pull too
tight. This opening needs to be wide
enough to slide a button through.
2. ch1,
dc in same place as slst, 3tr in next dc, *dc in next dc, 3tr in next dc repeat from * around for your petals. I have 5 petals, you will have 6. Join the flower to the strap with sewing
thread and a sewing needle.
Attach
a button to the body of the shoe.
Make a
second slip-on.
.jpeg)
I'll be off stitching...
Lu x
No comments:
Post a Comment