wildaboutyarn: March 2015

Sunday, 1 March 2015

Socks, socks, knitted socks for the Yal, 2015

YAL Year of the Flower 2015 March project

BOUQUET OF FLOWERS, SOCKS, cuff down

Hello lovely friends! This month is filled with socks - my most favourite thing to make. I designed a knitted sock for the YAL for March, but I haven't forgotten the crocheters . There's a pair of slip-ons for you to dance around in at home. :-) See the next post.

Inspiration for the arrangement

watercolour of the design

sample of the design...

This delicate sock pattern has been a delight to knit with its easy 6 row repeat. I hope you can see the bouquet of flowers.

Materials

350m sock yarn, 4ply

Circular needle 2.5 needles or 5 x 2.5 double pointed needles (dpns)

Stitch markers- 2

Gauge: 2.5mm needles, 9sts x 9 rows = 1in

Bouquet of flowers graph

Repeat this around all needles…

The anatomy of a sock is simple...

the anatomy of a sock...

Abbreviations

| Knit

- Purl

M – Make 1

/3 – Purl 3 tog = slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over the knit 2 together; 2 stitches have been decreased

ssk = slip one knitwise, slip the next one knitwise, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches and knit (Find this here… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGwcYW3GG3M)

M1 (below) - Work to the place where the increase is to be made. Insert the left needle from front to back into the horizontal strand between the two stitches: Knit the stitch through the back loop as shown. On the purl side, insert the needle from front to back and then purl the stitch through the back loop. (Find it here on Knitwitch’s site… https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmUSinUjZbE)

CUFF

Cast on 65 stitches using the continental cast on.(Find this here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjpLK8w2rkM ) This gives a stretchy opening.

Divide the stitches equally between the circular needle’s two ends – 32 ON LEFT NEEDLE, 33 ON RIGHT.

TWO TIPS TO AVOID THE BEGINNING GAP:

1. Cast on ONE more stitch then necessary - 33 sts. Before starting, knit the first stitch onto the right needle and then pass the second stitch on the right side over the one you just knit. (PSSO)

2. Weave the tail into the knitting on the first row as you go. This can be pulled on later to help close up the gap at the beginning.

To start, knit the first stitch then pass the second stitch on the right needle (the extra stitch) over the stitch you have knitted. This is quite awkward and is not compulsory but it does help to minimise the beginning gap! NB: Once you have done the PSSO, you will have 32 stitches on each needle.

*Weave in the tail at the back as you knit the first row.

This cuff is a standard rib pattern: K1, P1 all round. Repeat this until your cuff measures 1 ¼ inches or 3cm ( or longer if you wish). Place a marker at the beginning of the first round.

Leg

NOTE: Every second (even) row is the same: knit 13, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1

Work Rounds 1-6 of pattern 9 times by repeating it around the 64 sts. (If you want a longer sock, repeat the pattern 11 times.)

Heel Flap – worked on ONE needle back and forth, not in the round, as follows:

Set up row 1: K16. Turn your work so that the WS is facing.

Set-up Row 2: Sl 1 purlwise, purl the 16 st you just knit and then purl the next 16. These 32 will now all be on one needle. Arrange the cable so the other two- 16 st sections- are on the other needle end; these form the INSTEP and will lie dormant while you work the heel flap. Keep them separated by the stitch marker.

The heel flap will be worked back and forth on the first 32 sts that you knitted.

HEEL FLAP INSTRUCTIONS

heel flap worked back and forth

All sl1 will be done purlwise- insert your needle as if to purl then slip the stitch onto the right side needle ( if you are right handed) .

Row 1 : Sl 1, k31. Turn…
Row 2 : Sl 1, p31. Turn…
Repeat these 2 rows 14 times more. There will be 15 slipped sts along each side edge of the heel flap.

Turning the Heel

Row 1. : K17, ssk, k1.

Row 2. Sl1, p3, p2tog, p1 .

Row 3. Sl1, K4, ssk, k1

turning the heel

Row 4. Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1

Row 5. Sl1, K6, ssk, k,

Row 6. Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1

Row 7 : Sl1, k8, ssk, k1
Row 8 : Sl1, p9, p2tog, p1.
Row 9 : Sl1, k10, ssk, k1.
Row 10 : Sl1, p11, p2tog, p1.
Row 11 : Sl1, k12, ssk, k1.
Row 12 : Sl1, p13, p2tog, p1.
Row 13 : Sl1, k14, ssk, k1
Row 14 : Sl1, p15, p2tog, p1. 18 sts remain.
Row 15 : K9. This brings you to the centre of the heel.

From this point, needles will be situated with the number 1 at the middle of the heel.

Gusset

Gusset joins the heel to the body of the sock

Tbl = through the back loop – this is done because the row before is a purl row and the stitches will have a twist if you don’t knit through the back loop.

Reminder: Beginning at the centre of the heel, the gusset will be all knit and is termed as needles 1 and 4 (which are on one circular point, and needles 2 and 3 (on the other circular pointed end) are knitted from the patterned graph.

Round 1:

Using Needle 1, knit the remaining 9 sts of the heel flap, pick up and k 15 sts along side edge of heel flap (1 st in each slipped st) and then 1 st between top of heel flap and held instep sts (16 sts)

For needles 2 and 3, k 16 sts of the pattern, put a marker, knit the next 16 sts of the pattern

For Needle 4, pick up and k 1 st between instep sts and top of heel flap, pick up and k 15 sts along side edge of heel flap, k remaining 9 sts of heel flap. 82 sts: 25 sts each on Needles 1 and 4, 16 sts each on Needles 2 and 3.

Round 2: K9, k14 tbl, k2tog; work Row 2 of flower Pattern over sts on Needles 2 and 3; ssk, k14 tbl, k9.

Round 3: K to end of Needle 1; work next row of flower pattern over sts on Needles 2 and 3; k to end of Needle 4.

Round 4: K to last 2 sts of Needle 1, k2tog; work next row of flower pattern over Needles 2 and 3; ssk, k to end of Needle 4.

Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 seven times more. 64 sts (16 sts on each needle).

Foot
Continue in pattern as set, working sts on Needles 1 as knit and sts on Needles 2 and 3 in the flower Pattern, until work measures approx. 1.5 inches less than desired length to the toe, ending with Row 6 of the flower Pattern.

foot in progress, pattern on the top (needles 2 & 3) ,
plain knit on the bottom (needles 1 & 4)

Toe
1. K all around
2. Decrease Round: K to last 3 sts on Needle 1, k2tog, k1,

k1, ssk, k to end of Needle 2,

k to last 3 sts on Needle 3, k2tog, k1,

k1, ssk, k to end of Needle 4.

Repeat these 2 rounds 8 times more. (28 sts remain).

Using Needle 4, k to end of Needle 1.
Slip sts from Needle 2 to Needle 3. You now have 14 stitches on each needle and will now use kitchener stitch to close off the toe. (Splendid Sticks blog – an excellent resource for yarny things) Find how to do Kitchener stitch here...http://www.creativeknittingmagazine.com/blog/?p=5316

FINISHING

Weave in all ends and block well.

Don't worry if you don't have sock blockers. This is a wonderful tutorial on how to make sock blockers. http://yayforyarn.com/diy-sock-blocker-tool/

Dampen your socks and slide them over the blockers. Leave to dry.

Tag me on Instagram or comment below if you join us for the Yarn A-Long!

I'll be off stitching a new sock. :-)

Lu x

Ravelry: Lu Douglas

Instagram: @wildaboutyarn

Email: wildaboutyarn@outlook.com

Etsy shop: www.etsy.com/au/shop/ludouglasdesigns

Yal year of the Flower March 2015 Mary-Lu Slip-ons

Mary-Lu Slip-ons

How could I forget my crochet friends for the YAL this month? My mother's middle name was Mary so I thought this was a fitting name for these sweet little ballet flats with their cute flower closure. This project is easy and can be adjusted to fit any foot. I can't wait to see yours!

Shoe size: UK 5, US/AUS 7, Eur 38.

NOTE: This is an easy pattern to adjust. If you foot is narrow, use less starting chain – try 7ch.

If wider, alter accordingly, and follow the same format throughout doing rounds of dc.

FITTING: To gauge the fit, do the TOE section for 10 rounds and try it on. It needs to be very snug. This determines the width from then on.

UK terms

dc (UK) = sc (USA) = Dc (Aus)

DETAILS:

Dk yarn/8ply natural fibre (but you could probably use up your acrylic stash for these.) – 1 ball – 90 metres.

To do stripes, use small quantities of other colours

4.00mm hook

Tapestry needle

2 stitch markers

Instructions: Work in spirals, marking the start of each row. Do not join each row with a slipstitch.

TOE

Let’s start: Ch 9, dc in 2^nd ch from hook, dc in each of the next 6sts, 3dc in last ch (this is your corner), place marker in the 2^nd dc of this 3dc. Work in the foundation chain on the other side by hooking into the single loop that’s left. Dc in the next 6 loops, 2dc in the last loop, place marker in this last dc. (18 sts)

Your markers are now at both of the SIDES of the feet.

NOTE: As you work the rows, these markers actually move around the circle due to the spiral nature of crocheting so at the end, they will NOT be sitting at the SIDES. To fix this so your sides are in line with the first foundation chain line, let your toe relax into its own position and REALIGN the markers at the NEW sides of the feet of your work. (This will make sense once you’ve done the toe section and can SEE how it sits.)

Markers move around.

Every row for the toe section: *2dc in the stitches AFTER and BEFORE each marker, dc in the marker stitch, and then dc in all the other stitches between. (This means you increase 4 sts every round)

Repeat this format working in spirals placing the marker each time until you have 38 sts. ( if your toes are longer, just do a few more rounds. The next section is easily adapted as it’s almost straight dc all around)

From now on, do spirals of main colour; introduce a new colour for the stripe at one of the ends where the markers are. I did just one row each of yellow, white, yellow for the stripes and carried the yellow up inside. Weave the ends in at the back as you work.

End the foot section off with a row of your main colour if you did stripes. Fasten off. Weave in the end.

Foot/instep section:

Join main colour 4 stitches from the left marker towards the centre on top of the foot.

Dc around to the other marker and then dc four stitches back into the other side towards the centre. You should now be working on 27 stitches out of the 38.

There are 11 stitches in the middle not worked on.

leave 11 stitches in the centre unstitched

Do four rows and then decrease in the centre of the row by dc2tog.

Continue working in rows turning at the end of each row.

Each row: Dc in all stitches, 1 ch (This 1ch is not counted as a stitch. It is the stitch required to get you up to the height of the next row.) turn. Repeat until desired length. NOTE: stop a few rows short of your actual heel or the shoe will slip off! The stretch in the yarn will provide the extra cms you need to make the fit snug.

Leave a long tail.

TO MAKE UP THE HEEL: Bring the last row ends together. Thread the long tail with a needle. Bring the two points, A and B together. On the wrong side, join the inner seam with mattress stitch (here http://www.creativeknittingmagazine.com/blog/?p=5333 …)

EDGING

first dc row of the picot edge

Join colour of your choice at the centre back with a slip stitch and choose which edging you do. I’ve done the picot.

1. Dc around the entire top border of the slip on however - decrease once by doing a dc2tog once on each side of the instep on the first edging round. (This will make the slipper more fitted to your foot.) The number of stitches will depend on how long you made your instep.

. **You may have to fudge the edging at the end to make it fit depending on how many stitches you did for your instep.

PICOT edging - I love a picot! It’s dainty, easy to do and is easier to fudge if you don’t have the right number of stitches.

Picot – 1ch, dc in same place as slst, 1dc in the next two stitches, 3ch, sl st into the same place as the last dc, *1dc in the next 3dc, 3ch, slst into the last dc. Repeat from * all around. Slst into the first dc of the round. Fasten off. Weave in the ends.

Strap for picot edge:

Find the place where yu want your strap to come from. On the inner ankle side of the slip-on, using the edging colour, make a slip knot in the yarn, insert your hook in the first dc from the OUTSIDE of the slip on in the first dc after a picot.

Do a dc in each of the three dcs, ch 1 (turning chain) This will form your strap. Work over these three stitches until the strap is long enough to reach the other side where you will put your button.

Buttonhole row: dc, ch 2 and miss one dc, dc, ch 1, turn.

Dc in first dc, dc in ch2 space, dc in last dc, ch1, turn.

Dc all stitches on rows with the ch1 turning at the ends until you have 2cm more of strap.

Make a tiny flower for the strap

start of the flower closure

The centre of this will be where the button is slipped through from beneath so leave it open. Do not tighten this magic ring! Your button needs to get through!

Magic ring. 1ch, 6dc into ring, sl st into the first dc. ** Do not pull too tight. This opening needs to be wide enough to slide a button through.

2. ch1, dc in same place as slst, 3tr in next dc, *dc in next dc, 3tr in next dc repeat from * around for your petals. I have 5 petals, you will have 6. Join the flower to the strap with sewing thread and a sewing needle.

Attach a button to the body of the shoe.

Make a second slip-on.

I'll be off stitching...

Lu x